Sights

Postcard from Kerala 2026 – 2

January 8, 2026

At the wheel of a Tata Magic with my partner-in-crime, Jyothi

We are on a month-long road trip in our SUV through the length and breadth of Kerala.

Continuing from Postcard from Kerala 2026 – 1, on Dec 15th, we headed to Kalpathy from Coimbatore.

Kalpathy

Here’s a symbol of the Kalpathy generosity – you receive more than what is due to you. Like this coffee served in a ‘glass and davara‘ which is technically more than one glass of coffee although you have ordered just one coffee.

We were at Kalpathy, a Kerala heritage village, that comprises an Agraharam (two parallel rows of Brahmin homes facing each other). Here’s a picture of a Kalpathy morning after it had rained briefly at night.

We are Palakkad Iyers and we speak a unique dialect – a magical mix of Tamil & Malayalam. We have our own rituals and our own cuisine.

I was staying with Mr. & Mrs. Balasubramanian, who had added a floor on top of their original home. They were renting out the rooms – each room was named after their grandchild – to people like us. I had received Mr. Balasubramanian’s reference from a friend. The house was located on main village thoroughfare which allowed us to actively participate in the Kalpathy way of life.

Palakkad Iyers’ food items are normally not available in any restaurants and eateries but that’s not the case in Kalpathy. Over the 2 days, we had Kozhakkattai, Verum Arisi Adai, Muringyai Elai Adai, Morukkoottaan, Vazhatthandu Pachha Payaru Upperi, Pachha Payaru Upperi, Kadugu Maangai, Mahaani, and so on.

The servings were generous and there were several bonuses too. Like the Paruppu Payasam and the Kadala Paruppu Payasam that came to us as Prasada (divine offering) from the neighborhood temple while we were having our lunch at the local eatery – the 100-year old Lakshmi Coffee Tea Stall.

And then, of course, the intoxicating flow of conversation – harmless banter – in our own language where every person is just waiting to have a chat with you whether it is the grocer or the vegetable vendor or the auto guy. They are quick enough to observe that you are a visitor – my camera and the sling bag are giveaways.

Everyone wants to know where you are from. A cursory response is not good enough. If they had their way, they would want to know the exact GPS location. They also want to know the length of your stay and also the reason why you were not there at the Kalpathy Rathothsavam – the temple chariot festival – that concluded recently. Everyone extracts a promise that you will there at the Rathothsavam next year.

We visited the famous Ponnu Mami store in Kalpathy to buy some pickles and condiments.

We met the legendary lady who must be close to 90 years old now. Jyothi and I introduced ourselves to her. When she learned that we were on a road trip from Bangalore, she wanted to know if Jyothi also drives the car. I jocularly remarked that Jyothi drives me while I drive the car. Ponnu Mami turned to Jyothi and remarked, ‘That’s absolutely necessary! It is the the woman of the house who is always the central figure! She ought to drive you!’ We had a hearty laugh. Even at this age, Mami demonstrated the trademark Palakkad sense of humor. A great role model for us!

In the picture below, you can see Jyothi at a location that is most popular in the evenings at many Agraharams – including at Kalpathy. Sitting outside their respective homes, people indulge in banter where the village becomes one. People passing by indulge in a quick chat – most often about nothing in particular. Anyone’s joy or sorrow is everyone’s.

There is such a feeling of a shared community that even after people leave the Agraharam and settle down elsewhere – at home or abroad – many of them return to the village every year for the village’s Temple Chariot Festival like the Kalpathy Rathothsavam which is a grand reunion of different generations. What a phenomenon!

Here’s to the simple pleasures of Life!

Ah, Kalpathy! We will be back…soon.

Nurani

Nurani is another Agraharam.

On Dec 17th, we headed to Nurani from Kalpathy – a short distance of 5 km. At Nurani, I hoped to meet Natarajan Mama and Geetha Mami who were our family friends. I had not told them in advance because of the nature of my fluid program but once I was in Nurani, I called Natarajan Mama. We were immediately invited home and as Mami was a tad unwell, Mama made lunch for us with a flourish. Mama decided the lunch menu instantly – Mangaa Koottan, Pudavalangai Upperi with Rice and Buttermilk. Ah! Mouthwatering!

By the way, it is quite common to see men of the older generation cook with a flourish in Palakkad homes and in the process, supporting their spouses.

Nurani is known all over the world for its festivities surrounding the temples there. We spent a lot of time at the Sridevi Bhoodevi Samedha Sundara Varadaraja Perumal Temple. The vaaram rituals were on. We were privileged to be a part of the Veda Parayanam & the Yajurveda Samhitha Parayanam.

Mama & Mami extracted a promise from us that we would be back at Nurani on the way back to participate in the Sasthapreethi celebrations for which people from all over the world flock to Nurani. We made a commitment to them that we would be there. As we were on a road trip, all it took was a minor adjustment to our itinerary.

Puduruthy

On Dec 18th, we reached Puduruthy – Jyothi’s ancestral home – by lunch time.

Jyothi’s Mohan Mama & Manju Mami from Mumbai were already there. We had revised our itinerary to ensure we were at Puduruthy when they too were there. Both of them are great company.

Puduruthy was going to be our home for the next 2 days.

Jyothi’s maternal grandfather was known to be very generous with a philanthropic disposition. Many of the people who served Jyothi’s family in and around Puduruthy were given away lands for cultivation or to build their homes. At Puduruthy, the school as well as the Post Office stand today on the land given away by Jyothi’s grandfather.

Puduruthy was a stopover for good reasons. Jyothi had some laundry that needed to be washed and dried. Omanai who has been serving Jyothi’s family for years showed up with full enthusiasm. Within a few minutes, I saw our clothes on the clothesline flapping in the breeze.

Mohan Mama had organized lunch from Embrandiri’s Kitchen. Embrandiris are a subgroup of Malayali Brahmins.

To supplement this delectable lunch menu, we had brought Nei Appam, Jaangri, & Vadai as Prasada from the Nurani temple.

Temple visits

Yohanan, a thickset Puduruthy man, drives an auto – Tata Magic. His family has served Jyothi’s family for generations, right from his grandfather who used to have a bullock cart in those days. Today, Yohanan is available at the family’s beck and call.

We utilized Yohanan’s services. He drives the auto very well along those winding roads.

With Yohanan, the 4 of us headed to the nearby Pathirottukavu Bhagavathi temple. After the darshan, we returned for dinner. There was enough leftover from lunch. By then, the Vadai had undergone a metamorphosis. It was now Rasa Vadai – Vadai immersed in Rasam, an idea of Manju Mami & Jyothi. We enjoyed the dinner and the subsequent banter and retired for the night.

The next day, Yohanan again showed up again with his Tata Magic.

I happened to sit on the front seat and got a ringside view of all the action.

Thanks to Yohanan, I got a chance to be at the wheel of the Tata Magic with my partner-in-crime, Jyothi, by my side. An alternate career plan on autopilot! What’s Life without some childlike excitement!

We headed to Kuttancheri Sree Rama Temple and thereafter to the Nelluvai Sree Dhanwanthari Temple where we also had breakfast. Finally, we headed to the scenic Uthralikkavu Sree Bhagavathy Temple which happens to be the family deity of my mother’s family and returned home.

Later, in the forenoon, we went to the Deepanjali Ayurvedic Resort, managed by Jyothi’s neighbor, Dr Dhanya, at Puduruthy. We were shown around the resort and we had a very healthy lunch there.

In the evening, we visited the Sree Vadakurumbakavu Temple, at Thiroor, Kolazhi. We hail from Kolazhi which explains the ‘K’ in my initials. Finally, we went to the Paramekkavu Bhagavathi Temple to enjoy the Friday evening festivities.

To end the day, we had dinner at Siddhi Sri Vinayaka Pure Vegetarian Restaurant, Kolazhi. I was pleasantly surprised at the setting and the quality of food there. Once upon a time, there were very few vegetarian restaurants in this area.

A Kerala bus ride

I had wanted to travel in the local private town bus from Puduruthy to Thrissur and back – just for the experience. Mohan Mama was more than willing to accompany me.

We planned to take the early morning (6:45 am) bus from Puduruthy. In Kerala, I prefer to wear the veshti (dhoti) in Kerala as much as possible. We walked up to the bus stop overlooking verdant green paddy fields. It was probably the most picturesque bus stop in the world. The sun was still breaking and the picture did not come out so well. The weather was cool, actually a little cold. I had my Insta360 camera ready.

As usual – in Kerala – the bus was on time. The conductor recognized Mohan Mama (as is the case in small Kerala towns) and I was introduced as a close relative from Bangalore who wanted to enjoy the thrill of the bus ride. My camera which was on by now aroused some curiosity in the passengers and the conductor.

The bus itself was painted a bright blue (I am told that it is now a rule) and its interiors were very bright and painted in psychedelic colors – hot pink and electric blue – with swirling patterns on the roof. The stainless steels panels on the inside further reflected the patterns lending a discotheque-like look.

I got my window seat at no extra charges – unlike in an airline. The strong breeze which blew through the windows was quite cold. These buses do not have glass windows. They have a tarpaulin running along the length that needs to be pulled down if a window needs to be closed.

Kerala bus drivers are adept at weaving in and out of busy traffic at breakneck speed with screeching horns, warning fellow road-users. At this hour, there were not many passengers nor was there much traffic. I had to contend with the bus’ reasonable speed and minimal use of the screeching horn but the experience was unique.

The conductor and Mohan Mama exchanged some lighthearted banter and Mohan Mama pointed out some sights along the way to me.

We returned by the same bus to Puduruthy but not before having Chaya (tea) prepared in typical Kerala style.

We returned after the bus ride to the Puduruthy home for breakfast and coffee.

Lottery tickets seems like a big deal in Kerala. We find lottery ticket vendors – many of them women – everywhere. I recalled a Malayali grocer in Janakpuri, New Delhi, who won Rs. 21 lakhs of Sikkim Lottery in the 1970’s. He opened a Home Appliances store and dressed up in a suit always. He was the only lottery winner I knew in my life.

We loaded the car with our bags, bade goodbye to Mohan Mama & Manju Mami and left for Thrissur.

Thrissur

Bharath Hotel at Thrissur (established in 1964) is an iconic eatery and we just love all the items served there. We chose to stay at Hotel Gurukripa, Thrissur, located at a hop-skip-jump distance from the eatery. There is sufficient car parking space and as our car is fully loaded with stuff, it is important to find a safe parking space. Hotel Gurukripa was an ideal choice.

At Bharath Hotel, while having breakfast, I was ‘recognized’ by a gentleman based out of Coimbatore who is a regular reader of my posts on Facebook. He also introduced his son to me.

Bharath Hotel can get extremely busy with an inordinately long waiting time but my trick has been to visit the hotel at a slightly off-peak hour. It has always worked. For instance, we headed to Bharath Hotel at 12:15 pm for lunch and readily found a place to sit. We ordered their meals. Mouthwatering!

Movie time

We staggered back to our room, a 2-min walk, and sank into our bed for a brief but blissful siesta. The reason why the siesta had to be brief was because we had booked to go for a 4 pm movie, Kalamkaval, a Malayalam thriller movie featuring the legendary actor, Mammootty, in a rare negative role. The movie was playing in INOX, Sobha City Mall. Given that it is Thrissur, I was dressed in a veshti (dhoti) and a T-shirt with a sandal paste kuri (’tilak’ in Malayalam) on my forehead.

The movie is very well made. We thoroughly enjoyed the cat and mouse game.

However, the road to Sobha City Mall was under construction which resulted in a bad traffic snarl. Our auto driver was cursing the city authorities under his breath. We had planned to watch ‘Dhurandhar’, a new Hindi movie at the same venue on the next day but given the painful traffic snarl, we changed our minds and decided to watch ‘Dhurandhar’ in Kochi, our next stop on our road trip. Life has become so easy with technology. Jyothi accessed her Book My Show app on her phone, canceled the Thrissur booking and made a fresh booking at Cinepolis Centre Square, Kochi, but only after choosing the most suitable cinema based on the distance (using Google Maps) from BTH (Bharat Hotel, Kochi) where we will be staying. Just as she completed the Kochi booking, the refund from the Thrissur booking cancelation reached her account.

For dinner, we tried North Indian fare at Bharath Hotel. It was very tasty in absolute terms.

However, in order to enjoy North Indian fare at Bharath Hotel, it is critical to not compare the looks or the taste of what is served here with authentic North Indian fare served in North India. Such a comparison only reduces joy.

On Dec 21st, we had an early morning coffee at Bharath Hotel. Later, for breakfast, we had Puttu Kadala, one of our favorites, and very well made at Bharath Hotel.

My mother-in-law (who passed away in June 2025) used to make excellent Puttu Kadala. She had a much more elaborate menu than Bharath Hotel’s. Her Puttu Kadala would be accompanied by a crisp Pappadom, a ripe Nendhram Pazham (banana) and a dash of her signature lemon pickle.

Social visits

We were to meet Srikant and his wife, a Bangalore couple, who were in Thrissur visiting their hometown. We headed to their home, a 15-min walk from Hotel Gurukripa.

Just as I turned the corner, I saw a much-awaited sight – an umbrella repair guy. Our son, Sid, had got us a Kathmandu-brand big umbrella from Australia. Two of its ribs were broken and the umbrella was no longer in use. Thrissur is known for wayside umbrella repair guys and I had set up a reminder on my calendar to carry the umbrella with us on this road trip. Raman, the umbrella repair guy from Tamil Nadu, examined the umbrella carefully, and pronounced his verdict. He needed some extra time as the longer ribs were stocked at home. He asked me to come after an hour to collect the repaired umbrella. It suited us perfectly.

We met Srikant and his wife, Nandita, at their 100-year old heritage home. There were two heritage homes attached to each other. One of the homes belonged to Srikant’s uncle – an active octogenarian – and his aunt. We were taken on their double-storeyed home tour. I recalled my aunt’s home in Kerala, complete with its narrow wooden stairs and a tiled roof. Srikant’s home had been gradually modified over the years. The cowshed no longer held the cows and the calves while the well just outside the kitchen was still functional. I felt I had gone back in time. Fascinating!

Raman did a great job with the umbrella repair. Happy with the quality of his work, I paid him an additional tip. He was grinning from ear to ear.

My cousin, Tarun, and his wife, Rati, with their kids, Shreya & Vihaan, from Singapore, were to meet us in Bangalore but as we were on the road trip, we decided to meet them in Thrissur which was also on their itinerary. We met them in Hotel Gurukripa and had a great time catching up with our memories.

Tarun & Rati had brought some fruits for us. Jyothi & I decided to have only fruits for lunch and save our appetite for some unique Kerala snacks at Bharath Hotel during tea time. We had the immensely popular Pazham Pori (banana fritters).